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“I had arrived at the season of general relaxation, on the eve of the Carnival, which is celebrated with much gaiety in all Catholic countries. Masks, dominoes, harlequins, punchinelloes, and a variety of grotesque disguises, on horseback, in carts, gigs, and on foot paraded the streets with guitars, violins, and other instruments; and in the evening the houses were opened to receive masks, and balls were given in every direction.” -- J. Freeman Rattenbury's description of Carnival in St. Augustine, Spanish Florida, February 1818, from "Narrative of a voyage to the Spanish Main"
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It's Carnival Time in New Orleans. I've participated in a few events, mostly non-"mainstream" ones thus far.

Saturday 26 Jan I caught a little bit of the 'Tit Rəx mini-parade on St. Roch Avenue and later on Franklin Avenue on my way towards the lineup for the Chewbacchus Parade later that evening. Chewbacchus is a science-fiction related Carnival parade; the King was actor Peter Mayhew, the original Chewbacca in the Star Wars films.

Chewbacchus DAMN Band by Kimberly Edwards

Pair-A-Dice Tumbers, as the Dead Alien Musical Nerds (the D.A.M.N. Band) playing the Chewbacchus Parade. Faubourg Marigny, New Orleans. Photo by Kimberly Edwards.

Read more... )
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The Krewe du Vieux parade kicked off the New Orleans Carnival parade season last Saturday evening.

My pix on Flickr; some NSFW
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Rex 2012 Butterfly King 3

My set of pix of Mardi Gras Day in Uptown New Orleans. Caught the beautiful Rex parade from a friend's raised porch on Napoleon Avenue; a great spot to photograph the floats from.
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The weather was pretty much perfect for Mardi Gras Day this year. There are no doubt a thousand excellent ways to enjoy Mardi Gras in New Orleans; here's what [livejournal.com profile] mshollie and I did.

Illustrated description )
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Short video of "Bear's Eternally Annoying Royal Band" (including yours frogly) playing at a party the Saturday before Mardi Gras. Low quality video (half of it sideways), though some of the good-time spirit comes through.

YouTube Video
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Local Carnival pundit Erroll Laborde made an apt observation that unlike such parades as the Rose Bowl or Macy's Thanksgiving, New Orleans Mardi Gras Season parades are designed as participatory experiences, not to look good on tv.

Still, I enjoyed watching this and some of you might too:

Krewe du Vieux parade video on NOLA.com

[edit]
More nifty pix:

http://entheos93.livejournal.com/141570.html
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Since my last update, I've played a "jazz funeral" parade for a dog... (If one of your thoughts when your beloved dog dies is to get a brass band to parade around a circuit of your dog's favorite neighborhood places while inviting friends to dance in the streets in your dog's honor, you might be a New Orleanian. I think this city can get more life out of a dead dog than some places manage from a year of holidays.) There have already been few early Carnival celebrations, but this evening is the Krewe du Vieux parade, the first sizable parade in the city's Carnival calendar and always a highlight.

A sneak preview pic:



Float: David Vitter's Family Values Meal

Hee hee....
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The "Not Dead Yet" celebrations are heating up.

"come celebrate
with me that everyday
something has tried to kill me
and has failed." -- Lucille Clifton

Lots of Carnival events packed in from this evening on through Mardi Gras Day. Alas, a cold front. (I suspect the neighborhood party with the theme "Brassire to Eternity" tomorrow night will not be as interesting as it might have been with warmer weather.)

Like Christmas nationally, we have lots of holiday season specific music. On WWOZ, we've not just had shows of New Orleans Mardi Gras music, we've had specific shows of R&B New Orleans Mardi Gras music, trad jazz New Orleans Mardi Gras music, New Orleans Mardi Gras Indians music, brass band New Orleans Mardi Gras music, etc. Not to mention the Cajun shows. There are the classics, and new recordings come out each year. Some, of course, undistinguished and quickly forgotten, but I'm amazed at how many good ones there are. I enjoyed Billy Delle's "Records From the Crypt" show last night that had a number of fun records I'd never heard before.
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Article on various New Orleans topics by Lolis Eric Elie. I hope many out-of-towners get to read this, particularly the second half.

Unmasking Our Pain in New Orleans
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Photos from yesterday's Krewe du Vieux. Mine were mostly taken before the parade started. Also, links to some other folk's pix. May not be safe for work, depending.

look, see )

Events

Jan. 30th, 2007 11:30 am
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Carnival season is gearing up here in New Orleans. Saturday was a nice party with a small street parade around upper Carrollton-- my first playing a parade this season.

Meanwhile, later this week is the 4th Tulane Maya Symposium, 1-4 February, New Orleans, 4 Days of Pre-Columbian Maya scholarly goodness, with the theme "Murals and Painted Texts by Maya Ah Tz'ibob", including a keynote address by Dr. Karl Taube.

I hope to make at least some of it on Friday. But Saturday, I will miss it, as there is a schedual conflict with one of my favorite events:

The Krewe du Vieux parade. This year's theme "Habitat for Insanity".
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It was a cold day today. Weather that would usually make me deem 2nd tier Carnival parades as optional, but not today. I caught a little bit of the Krewe of Carrollton on St. Charles, with the theme "Blue Roof Blues", which was good, but then I headed out to what really got me out of the house today-- the Knights of Nemesis Parade in Chalmette-- the only parade this season in St. Bernard Parish.

The Parades in New Orleans this year are confined to the 20% of the area that wasn't under water. St. Bernard didn't have any %. Hardly anyone (I heard last month something like only 200 out of 65,000) had pre-Katrina homes in livable condition yet; most of those living back there are in trailers, and many more are still living elsewhere and commuting in to St. Bernard to work and gut & repair their homes. Folks who lost everything decided they were damn well going to have at least one Carnival parade this season.

I drove down Claiborne, past a fire sending up smoke from a residential section of New Marigny, through the ruins of the Lower 9th Ward, on down into the Parish. The parade started and ended at the small concentration of local small businesses that have gutted, repaired, and reopened on Paris Road near St Bernard Av, then wound back along what used to be the commercial throroughfare of Judge Perez Boulevard, now mostly empty and ruined buildings, with occasional groups of post-K dwelling trailers. People were out in force along the route, families barbequeing on little grills. I felt a great afirmation of life that I can't think of how to describe. The parade consisted of 12 floats, unremarkable in a normal year, with the theme "Proud to Call St. Bernard Home", mostly generic boosterism with some storm first responders riding as heros and a few obligiatory cracks at FEMA, along with some marching bands and costumed marchers.

In other news, the delayed New Orleans mayor election race is heating up, with the first serious content free wacky attack ads airing on local tv.
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I'm going to do my Carnival 2005 pix in chronological order. First is a typical daytime Uptown parade: Knights of King Arthur parade. This is probably the batch of least interest to New Orleans Carnival veterans, but gives out of towners a good example of the "standard" parades not known for any special artistic or satrical merit.

see the snapshots & such )
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From a friend pouring me my first traditional Mardi Gras morning oj & champagne cocktail as we watch dudes debark from an out of state car that has just gotten one of the last free parking places on the Marigny street:

"You can always tell the out-of-towners in this city. They're wearin' clean clothes."
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Kitchen update

I got some new cookwear. A big white enamel-clad Le Creuset pot with lid. At $30 it cost about as much as the rest of the stuff together, but it is a thing of beauty, the monarch of the range top, and a bargin at that sale price. I'd already had an enamel-clad pot for stuff like making big batches of red-beans or jambalaya when I have friends over; that one has given some 20 years of service and seems likely to give much more, but the Le Creuset is clearly much more solidly made. For those who havn't used them, note that you can't use metal utensils on enamelwear; use wood or plastic.

I also got a pair of cheap Mexican enamel-clad steel sauce pans, and a set of Tramontina stainless steel pots & pans with glass lids.

Historic cooking materials pondering
Wondering: Does anyone here use copper cookwear? I occasionally see it at places like World Market, but with tags saying it is for "decorative" use, and that it has a coating you need to strip off if you wish to actually cook with it. I guess it used to be in fairly common use from what I've seen at garage sales and junk shops. I occasionally see old brass pans as well. Anyone ever cooked with brass? Was brass the equivilent of cheap aluminum for the early 20th century, or did it actually have any advantages?

Marching musicians
One more pic from the "Jazz Funeral for Democracy" peace protest last month; I got this in the mail from a friend yesterday:



Shannon Powell, Nita Hemmeter, snare drums; Mikey B., sousaphone, and yours frogly with the slip-horn.

larger vanity pic of me for my fan club

Carnival
Last couple of days of Carnival activities were pretty much rained out. Fortunately we had nice weather Sunday. I went over to my old neighborhood on Napoleon Avenue to catch the daytime parades. I had two friends in King Arthur, and got so many beads I decided not to stick around for the third parade in the row, calling it a day before I was weighed down with more beads than I could walk with.

Mardi Gras Day is supposed to be cool, but clear. Yay!
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As some of you know, years ago I started "The True Church of the Great Green Frog" here in New Orleans years ago as a tounge (of frog) in cheek counter-protest to the Jimmy Swagart types who come to town to protest Mardi Gras.

Some early uptown converts moved out to the San Fransico Bay area, and started the Berkeley Mardi Gras Frog Parade there each Mardi Gras.

Thanks to the ever Frogtastic [livejournal.com profile] hyla_regilla, I have been made aware of the website:

BerkeleyMardiGras.org



Clearly the Berkeley Frogs have been flourishing wonderfully! I've long said that the only way I'd not be in New Orleans for Mardi Gras was if I was some other place that seriously celebrated Carnival, like Venice or Brasil. I see Bezerkeley now belongs on that list. Way to go!

More amazing pix of the 2004 parade

My friends in the Bay Area who can't make it to New Orleans this year are hereby told to be sure to attend this event (and to tell me about it afterwards). Now go forth, my children, and sin some more!

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