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Ms Hollie took me to breakfast at the Maple Street Patiserie, Carrollton section of New Orleans. I had to try one of their little "frogs". It's a sweet vanilla cupcake.

Maple Street Patisserie July 2011 Frog Mouth
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[livejournal.com profile] mshollie and I had a nice day on the town yesterday. We took the streetcar downtown and had lunch at The Green Goddess Restaurant in the French Quarter. Delicious! Then to the Historic New Orleans Collection to see exhibits first at the Chartres Street Research Center, then at the Royal Street Museum. We walked around a bit, then went to the Roosevelt Hotel right as it officially reopened to the public. One of the city's grand old hotels, it had been closed since Katrina. Roosevelt Hotel New Orleans Wikipedia article. Drinks at the Sazerac bar!

More, with photos )
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A couple photos from the last couple days here in New Orleans

Mardi Gras Indians, Jazz, and Food )
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[livejournal.com profile] mshollie and I enjoyed our weekend. Saturday afternoon we had a late lunch at Juan's Flying Burrito; I had the jerk chicken burrito and Hollie a quesadila. Ms. Hollie had been craving a mojito-- as we knew Juan makes better burritos than mojitos, we went over to St. Joe's Bar on Magazine Street afterwards-- but apparently they aren't open in the day time anymore. We then tried Superior Grill on St. Charles, which more than satisfied our mojito craving. Then to Palmer Park for a free pops concert by the Louisiana Philharmonic. Sno-balls at Plum Street before heading home left us content as can be.

Today we went to NOLA Beans in Lakeview, just to do an "eat & geek" (meal with our laptops) at someplace different. They were out of croissants for breakfast sandwiches (gasp!) so instead I had a cup of French onion soup (ok) and half a Reuben sandwich (quite good). Hollie said her baked potato was good. Later, down to Frenchmen Street for more free music-- "The Joint Chiefs of Jazz" at Ray's Boom Boom Room. After the first set we went upstairs which was better acoustically. (The downstairs would have been fine except for the sound system set to amplify the rhythm section louder than the front line. This type of band in that size venue really needs minimal amplification if any.) It balance sounded good and natural from up in the balcony. Tom Fischer's clarinet playing again had some real delights. It was an excellent band all around.
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For anyone who remembers the loquat tree my neighbor cut down a bit over 4 years ago, I have two decendants of it I grew from fruit seeds. The larger of the two has its first crop of fruit. I just had some-- yummy!
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This is my first time back in Jacksonville since evacucation in '05.

I'm visiting Ms. A, who also evacuated here in advance of Katrina. She got an apartment and new job while the city was under water, and is still here. She says she still reads nola.com more than keeps up with the news in Jacksonville. I brought her a New Orleans care package, including Angelo Brocotto's cookies, a Hubig's pie, and a signed copy of Chris Rose's book.

Last night we went to one of the older parts of town. She was going to take me to a French place, but they were closed, so we went to "The Brick" across the street which was excellent. Baked brie with walnuts apitizer; she had ribs and I had a Cuban sandwich. A little jazz duo of baritone sax and guitar started playing before we left.

Today we went to the Cummer museum, a decent fine art museum for a city of Jacksonville's size with some interesting stuff.

Lunch at a little French place that a non local would never find, in what looked like part of an industrial warehouse building-- excellent bruchettas and strawberry creme brulett. Later we visited Neptune Beach. Ms. A mentioned good Mexican, Thai, and German places; I suggested the German, as I no longer have a chance to go to a German restaurant in New Orleans. The server reccomended the German version of gulaysh, which was different and milder than the Hungarian version but good and tender.

Next, on down to South Florida. My dad and I will be going through some of my mother's possessions, and I'll no doubt be bringing some back.
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I'm posting from Fair Grinds Coffee House. Which has been open 1 week. Yay! Back in October of 2005, I incorrectly guessed they were likely be the first place back open back from Claiborne Avenue -- they're on a part of Esplanade Ridge that only flooded less than knee deep, and repairs were already under way in October '05, but what with the too common post-K contractor nightmares etc, it took a while, though they did valuable service with a community gatering place and post disaster supplies in their side patio. Now they're back in business with Wi-Fi and nifty two bladed belt driven ceiling fans overhead. Support your local coffee house.

Meanwhile, the city is losing another culinary institution: La Spiga in Marigny is closing after this weekend. Contrary to the old saying that a bakery can excell at pasteries or at breads but not both, La Spiga triumphed not only in those categories, but tasty quiches and good sandwiches as well. The owners are retiring; while folks are sad to see them go, in some ways its good to see a NORMAL organic non-disaster related closing. I'd usually get La Spiga bread at wine tastings or stuff at the farmer's markets, seldom visiting their shop/restaurant as I'm not usually downtown the later part of the week when they'd be open. I made a special trip and enjoyed a tasty lunch and got a piece of quiche and a couple baked goods to take with me for later. If you want a final La Spiga fix, go on down there, 'cause come Monday they'll join the "Ain't Dere No Mo" list.

Looking at La Spiga's display case, I was briefly tempted to make a "Fazola" order to go. Irving Fazola was a rotund clarinetist who in his brief time up north won out over Benny Goodman, Artie Shaw, and Edmond Hall as clarinet king in the Downbeat polls, but who decided he was more comfortable back in his home town of New Orleans gigging at local clubs in between happily eating himself to an early grave. The story is that Fazola would go into local restaurants, study the menu, and then give his standard order: "One of everything, except the soup." He somehow lived to be 36.

Last night went to Snug Harbor to hear Morton Gunner Larsen and his Ofelia Orchestra. I first heard the phenomenal Norwegian pianist Larsen at a concert symposium on Jelly Roll Morton in the early '80s, when Larsen succeeded in playing Jelly's showcase "Fingerbuster" a bit better than Jelly's own recording of it. Last night he played Eubie Blake's "Charleston Rag" equally astonishingly. His band was formerly the Ofelia Ragtime Orchestra, but it's since branched out into a variety of related music including Caribbean, Brazilian, and Weimar era German hot music. They played an old style Cuban danzon with a sound I'd never heard other than off acoustic era recordings. A friend remarked that the musicians listening attentively in the audience would make a fine band as well-- no doubt a sign of a good musical event.
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New Orleans Rising: Back to Camellia Grill, Bayou Boogaloo, Greek Fest

Thursday I ate at Camellia Grill for the first time since K. It is probably the most famous eatery in the Riverbend Carrollton area near me; basically an old style diner with a few New Orleans additions. It's in the highest 10% of the city that was fortunate to only be hit by a hurricane, not the much worse disaster of the Federal levee failures. At the start of October 2005, I doubt anyone would have guessed that most of the icons in Mid City, and even a couple business in Lakeview and the Lower 9th, would beat Camellia to reopening. It finally reopened shortly before JazzFest. Every time I'd go past, there'd be a line out the door. I've always thought Camellia was worth eating at but not standing in long lines for as there are a good variety of other food options within an easy walk (which lots of JazzFest visitors and students seem not to know about). Thursday I passed by just before 4pm, no line, so I decided to give it a try. I just had a burger and a mocca freeze. It's been remodeled, but the front and food are pretty much as folks remember it. Some of the old camellia prints, in addition to the discolored old Mickey Mouse clock (which looks like it's been there forever, but I vaguely remember the clock before it) , are on the newly repainted wall. Alas, no coat or hat hooks now-- I always liked that they were one of the few casual restaurants that still provided a place to hang your hat. The back kitchen and bathroom have been more extensively redone, to good effect.

Yesterday I spent much of the day at two events along the banks of Bayou St. John. The first was the 2nd "Mid-City Bayou Boogaloo", at the head of the Bayou in Mid City. The second was the 34th Annual Greek Festival at the Orthodox church & Helenic center across from Old Spanish Fort near the lake Pontchartrain end of the Bayou. Weather was beautiful, and many people were enjoying canoeing or rafting in the bayou. Both events were lively and well attended, in neighborhoods where there are still numerous vacant formerly flooded homes around (though now most have been gutted).

The Bayou Boogaloo was first held last year to celebrate and spur revival of Mid City; I went there only briefly as a torrential downpour hit. This year was better, with two music stages, a special Mid City art & crafts market set up along Davis Parkway, food booths and other entertainment.



Mardi Gras Indian at the Bayou Boogaloo. One of the city's hospitals (Lindy Boggs) still closed since the great deluge in the background.

At Greek Fest I had the best gyro I've eaten in quite some time, with freshly cut lamb just roasted over an open outdoor rotiserie. Seeing a name badge on one of the women serving, I asked her the pronounciation. "Kah-lee-OH-pay". The Greeks should know, so it seems the local street name pronunciation ("KAL-ee-yohp") and the northern name for the instrument ("Ka-LIE-oh-pee") are both wrong.

Later today back to the Bayou, where I hope to catch some more Indians.



New Orleans Rising: House in Mid City
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Driving back from Florida, Ms Hollie was emotionally affected when we got our first sight of ruined houses with still visible floodlines visible from the Interstate in New Orleans East.

A number of things have been reopened or torn down while we were gone. One of the most anticipated reopeners is Brocatto's, Italian ice cream and pasteries in business for over a century. (When on evacuation in Austin, I made up alternative lyrics to "Back Home in Indiana" that included the line "When I dream about Liuzza's and Brocatto's, I long for my old New Orleans Home".)

Having just missed the reopening of Brocattos at the end of September, I went there Friday. They were doing a good business, though fortunately for me not with the long lines around the block I heard of when they first reopened. The design changes of the shop IMO are an improvement from what it was-- looks good while retaining the traditional look, and more practical layout. They're still the only reopened business on the block (some 5+ feet of long standing water), but gutting and rebuilding continues around them. Brocatto's ice cream is delcious. It's not quite like any Italian gelato I've had elsewhere-- I'm only familiar with northern Italy first hand, but in Boca we visited an excellent gelateria run by a family that had moved there from Sicily just a few years earlier, and their product was more like northern Italian gelato than it was like Brocatto's. I wonder if Brocatto's reflects Sicilian tradition of a century ago that has since changed, or has just developed into its own style of hybrid in the century of business in New Orleans-- I'm pretty sure at least their "praline" gelato is a local development.

On the other hand: Just over a year ago I expected Fair Grinds Coffee House to be the first business back from Claiborne to reopen but it's still under construction. (The first I actually saw reopened was the head-shop by the Canal cemeteries. I bought a bottle of juice and some Dr. Bronner's soap just to reward them for the gumption of reopening early.) Fair Grinds was a gathering point and offering free coffee in the patio for early returnees, but I still havn't had a chance to do business there again.

Planned Krewe du Vieux theme: "Habitat for Insanity".
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St. Augustine, Florida, is a pleasant town with many nice attractions. I was excited to see a restaurant sign reading:

CASA MAYA
Mayan Cuisine

Ah, what tasty Maya goodness would they offer? It had been too long since I enjoyed any poc chuc, pollo pibil, sopa de lima, tamales de venado... Would it be Yucatecan or highland Guatemalan Maya food?

Alas, none of that on the menu. "Mayan smoothies" with names like "Tulum" and "Coba" were. The only things I saw on the menu which looked like what I might find somewhere in Mesoamerica were the bean soup and the huevos rancheros. The menu offered a "Chicken Mayan Wrap". The picture on the menu looked like what other places call a "California Wrap". What is it wrapped in, I asked? No, alas, the answer was not a hand made maize tortilla. Flour pita!

False advertising!

We contented ourselves with good panini and gelato up the street.
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Red Cross aid station pix, 14 October 2005.

FEMA prevented the Red Cross from entering the city back when people were actually dying of dehydration, but as parts of the city first officially reopened to locals the good folks of the Red Cross came in force. A number of stations handing out supplies to locals were set up around town. I only took photos at one of these once.

5 photos. Two of these I posted to nola photos last year. )

Just stuff

Oct. 7th, 2006 08:56 pm
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I'm looking forward to the return visit to the eye doctor Tueday, and hope my new glasses will result in better vision. Short drives in the nearby area only until then, but fortunately there's a good variety of stuff near our hotel (and my parents' condo is a short distance away). My eyes with new artificial lenses in them are much more sensitive to touch; a moderate touch of eyelid feels like a harsh poke in the eye.

Boca Raton does have good food. I think the selection of good gelato within a limited area is the best I've found outside of a few cities in Italy. I'm just disappointed that the Inca restaurant is closed for vacation. This evening we got some take out from "Canoli Kitchen", a small busy place with an impressive menu including at least 10 different interesting good pizzas availible by the slice. It was interesting hearing a combination of English, Spanish, and Italian as the workers were addressing eachother.

Hollie is tolerating exposure to my parents with admirable fortitude.

Ms Hollie watches "Sábado Gigante" fairly regularly, she says, though her Spanish is worse than mine. I enjoy seeing bits of it on occasion (in part nostalgia as one of the few shows still on from my teens); not having cable at home I seldom have a chance. But I can only take it in limited dosages-- it can feel to me like watching weeks worth of constant television concentrated in a couple hours.
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Hollie and I enjoyed visiting the Morikami Museum in the western Boca Raton area. Founded on land that was originally a small Japanese colony 100 years ago, has a nice small museum and beautiful extensive gardens around an artificial lake. The restaurant cafe was said to be rated in the top 5 museum restaurants in the USA-- very good Japanese food with an absolutely lovely view of the lake and landscaping.

My parents hosted us for some meals at their condo. My dad is justly proud of his made-from-scratch French onion soup. However the chips we munched on for an appitizer were served with the blandest salsa we've ever tasted-- like watered down catsup. South Florida is neither New Orleans nor Texas. But it has charms and pleasures in limited dosages. Nice beach!
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Yesterday evening I finally had a chance to take Ms Hollie out to eat in my neighborhood, to Mona's on Carrollton Avenue. I think they may be the first new (technically) restaurant to open in town since Katrina-- it's a small local Middle-Eastern chain; their locations in Mid-City and on the other side of Claiborne from Tulane were flooded out, and last time I checked their Marigny location hadn't reopened yet. They'd started preparting the building (formerly another neighborhood restaurant) before the storm, but just opened here this week. They have a limited menu. The gyros sandwich was quite tasty.

The Maple Street Bookshop reopened today, as did the Whitney Bank on Carrollton -- being back around Plum, I think that's the furthest back from St. Charles anything is functioning anywhere Uptown.

Today I took Hollie out again, on perhaps the cheapest of cheap dates: to a Red Cross outpost.

My pix from NOLA photos community (actually from an earlier visit there).

We found a few things we could make good use of, and fortunately today they had decent bottled water-- which means anything but that white can Anhauser-Busch water. I mentioned our experience with those things in Florida. I tried it again here. My first sip in the front of my mouth wasn't too bad, but then it got to the back of my tongue with a vile metalic taste. I tried it both room temperature (how I often drink water) and well chilled, and it's still nasty; everyone else I've consulted about it on agrees with me. I used the rest of the 6 pack to water my plants (hope it doesn't hurt them).

A couple of good developments for yours frogly today: a Bell South crew was in the neighborhood, and as I mentioned restored my phone line. Also, a pair of plumbers came by and fixed a toilet that had been leaking through the floor-- I originally had an appointment with them for the last Tuesday in August, but some stuff came up then, so we had to reschedual. I looked inside my mailbox, but still nothing-- asking for a triple play is a bit too much, I guess. Still, I have seen some postmen out and around.

Part of Magazine Street was cleaned up yesterday, and looks pretty good. Most of the "better" parts of the city still have piles of debris, weeks of trash, and dead appliances lining the curbs.
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[livejournal.com profile] mshollie & I got our free Tetanaus & Dyptheria vacinations this morning at a nearby clinic. I have a Snoopy bandage on my arm; Hoille requested a Sponge Bob, but they didn't have any so she settled for Bugs Bunny.

I got a check for $360 (no, I have no idea how they determine the amount) from the Red Cross in the mail yesterday, which H*E*B Supermarket cashed this morning, and I got some groceries for the household. We're getting ready to hunker down for Rita. I am so damn sick of hurricanes. We have friends in Dallas, but we havn't been able to figure that'd be any better (further north: good; further east: bad), so it looks like we'll be riding it out here in Austin.

Last night I played at the Austin Musicians Exchange (something like that) on Guadelup(e) Street. Doc on tuba, guitarist Brett, and me on trombone, with a sax player refugee from Gentilly joining us. Alas, we didn't really know songs in common, but I called for a 12 bar blues and that went well. It was one of those things were various performers take turns doing a couple numbers. It reminded me of the Neutral Ground (old Penny Post) in Uptown New Orleans, but no smoking.

We had some good red beans & rice and cornbread by a displaced New Orleans cook.
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A sunny day, papa's okay, and Hollie & I finally got a chance to go to Jacksonville Beach for a couple of hours.

Yay!!

The sea was angry-- some surfers taking advantage of it. The waves were much foamyer than either of us had ever seen them-- and I've lived by and near the ocean before. It was like a convoy of tankers carrying extra sudsy detergent had sunk offshore. I presume it's something to do with Hurricane Ophelia. Either way, big gobs of foam on all the waves, and blowing around on the beach like tumbleweeds.

The grey sand beach was nice, however.

Afterwards, H & I ate at a Brazilian Restaurant.
This was the first time either of us had eaten Brazilian. Apparently it's fairly authentic, as Jacksonville seems to have a good sized Brazilian community, and everyone else there was speaking Portuguese. I had a yummy blackbeans & rice dish with powdered yucca and nicely seasoned collard greens. Hollie had a type of chicken & beef shish-kabob type dish.

Very nice being able to relax and recharge our batteries.
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I'm back in town after my grandmother's funeral up in Minneapolis. One last thing I can thank her for is not dying up there in the depths of winter. And yes, "Fargo" does seem to be an accurate depiction of a common accent up there.

The hotel I stayed at was the Sofitel, which has a French style restaurant. I ordered the scrambled eggs crepe for breakfast. The waitress brought it with a medium sized bowl full of ketchup.

"I brought you some ketchup, just in case."

"Pardon?"

"Ketchup! Just in CASE!"
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Wanted:

1)Less helicopter noise. So, are military helicopters repeatedly buzzing metro areas for hours at a stetch for days in other cities? Or is it just because New Orleans voted 78% for the other guy?

2) More warmth. I'm no fan of cold weather. We might even get down to freezing tomorrow night. Time to harvest the back yard citrus.

3)Latkas. NPR just had a story about potato latkas. Damnit, I'd rather eat than listen to them.

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