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In 1841 US explorer & travel writer John Lloyd Stephens and English architect & illustrator Frederick Catherwood were visiting Yucatan, including the town of Bolonchen in what is now the state of Campeche. In most of Yucatan there are no rivers, and in the dry season traditionally water is from "cenotes", natural sinkholes and caves.


The one in this illustration, a short distance outside of Bolonchen, is known by the Maya name Xtacumbilxunaan, "cave of the hidden woman". A line drawing engraving of the scene was published in Stephens' book "Incidents of Travel in Yucatan" in 1843; Catherwood published this color lithograph the following year in "Views of Ancient Monuments in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatan".






By the late 19th century, windmills were common, pumping the water up, replacing trips to bring it up one jug at a time. The windmills were still ubiquitous in much of the area when I was there in the 1970s.


In 1977 a friend and I were gradually traveling by buses and hitchhiking from the city of Merida to Campeche, with many stops between, and wound up in Bolonchen. We were familiar with this illustration and the description from Stephens & Catherwood. We walked from the town to see the caves.


We were disappointed that the ladder was long gone, and the cavern was inaccessible unless one had ropes and caving gear. As we did not, we just looked from the top.


Now it is a tourist attraction with concrete stairway, electric lights, and recorded sound played.

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Pre-Columbian Maya books and their decipherment, a cartoon history by Andy Warner. From "The Nib", 2016.

https://thenib.com/mayan-codices/

Pretty good! Some obligatory nitpicking:

* For scholarly use, “Maya” should be both the noun and the adjective unless one is talking about the language. (”Mayan” or “Mayans” was long considered a shibboleth of dubious or sloppy fringe writing. Better magazines, newspapers, etc generally followed the scholarly usage... up to the deluge of articles in 2012 connected with the turn over of the Maya Long Count calendar cycle, the supposed “Mayan Apocalypse” (sic), when most outside of academia seem to have given up.)
* “There were hundreds, possibly thousands, of codices”. A conservative estimate! Early explorers reported entire “libraries” of them. Conquistadores considered burning them, along with smashing idols, as part of their sacred duty of conquest of the Pagans. Archaeologists discovering tombs of ancient Maya nobility often find rectangles of white and colored stucco dust - the frustrating remains of ancient books after all organic material has rotted away.

Some oversimplification:
* Numbers were deciphered in the 19th century, then gradual but significant work was done by indentifying various common nouns and terms by function - sort of like if another civilization discovered the ruins of 20th century restrooms, the pictograms for male and female identified as functionally equivalent of the spelled out letters “MEN” and “GENTLEMEN” / “WOMEN” “LADIES”, even if they had no idea exactly how the alphabet worked or how to pronounce the words. Then being able to recognize those strings of letters in other contexts.

Missing that nuance led to something simply wrong:
* Proskouriakoff’s piecing together dynasties of Maya rulers was brilliant work - but done by recognizing the function of glyphs for “birth”, “coronation”, “death” etc. While happening about the same time as Knozorov’s phonetic breakthroughs, it was unrelated, being rather the last great discovery of functional research on Maya glyphs, the approach which went back to the 19th century.

Still, pretty good! Check it out!
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(another in Froggy's youthful memories series)

In 1973 I was with my family in Mérida, Yucatán. The city did not seem significantly less modern to me than the U.S.A. or London, but the countryside was quite a different matter. Mérida had the peninsula's modern international airport, back when Cozumel still had a gravel landing strip served by small prop planes, and Cancun was still a dream in developers' imaginations.

One day at a market with my older sister, we were talking to a country Maya woman who came in to the market. She asked if we two blonde haired people came from far away. Did we come by bus? No, Sister explained, we came by airplane. "Airplane," the woman repeated looking at us for a moment, then asking, "Is it true that the sky has no end?"

One weekend my Dad took the family to the famous ruins of Chichen Itza. We drove west on a well paved two lane road, which most people drove down the center of, except when passing vehicles going the other way. Piste was the town nearest the ruins, and my Dad had been informed he could get the gas tank refilled there. He went up and back the length of the small town without seeing a gas station, so he asked someone. He was directed to a non-descript shop building, where he knocked on a door. The man who answered asked how many liters he wanted, then came out with a big metal milk can of gas, a smaller can used to scoop and measure, and a funnel.

So, yes, I am old enough to remember my dad getting gasoline for his automobile at the hardware store, before these newfangled gas pumps had popped up everywhere.
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(starting an occasional series of posts of personal memories long before blogging or Usenet)

In 1977, supposedly bright boy that I was, I was taking college classes at the age of 16, in Merida, Yucatan, Mexico. Between sessions I made a series of trips around the Yucatan Peninsula with Ms. B., from my perspecitive an exotically wise and worldly woman of 22.

We traveled by train, bus, and hitch-hiking. I have never hitch-hiked anywhere other than Yucatan.

We were on our way to Izamal, a Colonial era town built over one of the largest pre-Colombian Maya ruins. We were riding in the cab of a produce truck we'd flagged down. Our route visiting a series of other towns took us into Izamal not by the main highway, but along a road comming from the north. From miles away we could see the remains of the Izamal's great pyramid, so large that the Spanish Conquistadores decided it was too much trouble to level and they contented themselves with putting a cross on the top. As we got closer, the second highest building of the city was visible-- a yellow Colonial Spanish Convent, built atop the old Maya acropolis. Then on the outskirts of town, we stopped. The road was blocked by a train. Who knows how long it would be, so we thanked our driver and got out to walk.

It was a passenger train. We walked up the steps of the back balcony (what's the term?) of one of the passenger coaches and back down the other side to get to the other side of the train. We looked around and suddenly realized the train was pulled by a steam locomotive. A series of horse drawn Victorias were meeting passengers at the train to take them to the center of town.

There were no automobiles visible. Other than details of clothes fashion of the people, we could turn around 360 degress and see nothing to contradict the impression that we had suddenly traveled back in time a century. I have never since had so complete an experience of sudden unexpected time travel.

****

We later took the steam train back, just to take it. When I returned to the Yucatan in the 1980s I was disappointed to see the old locomotives replaced by much less picturesque diesels. What happened to the old trains?, I asked. I was told they were "sold to Walt Disney".
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News story via [livejournal.com profile] la_azteca:

Posh hotel on the "Rivera Maya" tries to eject Nobel laureate for being Maya.
Rigoberta Menchú in Cancun

I recall some 30 years ago the first Maya governor of Yucatan, Francisco Luna Kan, was ejected from the train to Mexico City-- reportedly they couldn't believe an indio could be anyone important. Would have been nice to see some progress since.

The only time I've been in Cancún was inside an airplane when the flight to Mérida made a stop there. When I go back to Yucatán I plan to keep it that way.

----
Edit: Menchú incident apparently didn't happen; Rigoberta Menchu Denies Suffering Discrimination at a Cancun Hotel
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Hyped publicity gimmick:

Telegraph: New Seven Wonders picked after global vote

Bah. Chichen Itza got in. Dang; Ms Hollie and I have been discussing a trip to Yucatan sometime in the next year or so; now Chichen is going to be even more mobbed with tourists. Chichen has serious niftyness, but as Maya ruins go, Tikal is much larger and Uxmal, Palenque, and Copan are certainly more beautiful.

The description of Chichen on the contest website isn't even up to the standards I'd expect from the text on the back of an off-brand souvineer postcard. Dubious neologisms for major structures; I presume "the Playing Field of the Prisoners" is the Great Ball Court. WTF?

Worst choice on the list: Cristo Redentor in Rio. Sorry, as a non-Christian, I've seen some beautiful sculptures of Jesus, but that ain't one of them. Years ago, my old neighbor, aviation pioneer Walter Hinton, showed me some marvelous aerial photos he took of Rio de Janeiro -- back before this lovely natural setting was ruined with that ugly-assed uninspired giant touchdown Jesus. Declared a "Wonder", now the eyesore will likely NEVER get torn down or replaced with anything better.
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Some folks have mentioned this story of a fellow who died while playing human piñata as a prime "Darwin Award" candidate.

But notice he was one Sebastian Cahum Pech from Chemax, Yucatan... with a name like that, clearly he is Maya.

Was Maya.

So... is this just garden varitey idiocy, or the cover story for something more interesting?

I'm hypothesizing that Cahum Pech was actually a deliberate and willing human sacrifice to the Ancient Mesoamerican Diety of Yummy Candy.

(Notice that I have refrained from making up a name for said hypotheitical diety. You're welcome.)

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